Block Sanding Tips & Tricks with Kevin Tetz – How To Make Panels Look Great – Part 2 – Eastwood


it’s a real simple operation you charge
it it’s got a schrader valve on it he charged with air and it allows you to
do this alright what have I done I’ve just soak
the panel that i blocked so camera guy can I don’t know if you can get down on
that edge and show i’m looking at the monitor let’s see
where you’re seeing that where are you seeing mostly ok I think
you guys get the point but basically what we’re trying to do is
make everything wet make everything flow out to where you can get a visual
barrier perfect perfect can’t a visual representation of what it looks like
with a coat of clear on it and keep going back and forth just like that see the way that fluorescent light is
bending its tracking it’s been here and ripples of stuff when that light is
bending you know your panels not straight because the reflection is
crooked so use this technique and when you’re
looking ken is looking at about a 45 degree angle 30 degree angle on that
panel and you can literally find your light source and drag it across the
panel I demonstrate this techniques very
clearly in the instructional videos from the education series but this is a
beautiful beautiful beautiful test on where you’re at and you can see you
don’t have to guess you don’t have to pretend and hope so you can use a guide coat and when you’re
done blocking you can take your pre-painting prep and watch what you’re
doing and that’s the secret to getting that super flat paint job to that super
flat panel and you know is I say all the time it’s not just one
thing that makes a great paint job it’s a series of little things all linked
together in a giant chain of knowledge and experience that make a great paint
job and you guys can do this stuff it ain’t rocket science so what we’re
going to do now get my super stand over here we’re going to talk about some of
the trickier parts of blocking look at this style line coming close to this one
can there is a distinct ridge here we want
to recreate this we want to make sure that this guy here doesn’t get blocked
over top of let me show you what I mean by blocked over top of if I’m not
careful if I’m blocking this panel I’m not going
to top off and i’m not getting this area here and and I’m I’m flattening this out
unnecessarily so what I want to do is block up against
it but you know what we all slip is gravity if I’m if I’ve got five of these
panels to do I’m in a hurry so here’s a technique
that i want to show you guys that really helps protect against over block here
crossing over styleline simple masking tape and this is more of a suggestion of
a guideline than it is an actual protection device but what I’m doing you can see what I’m doing I’m
protecting my edge and this way when I block into that guy
using the leading edge of my block I know real quick when i’m hitting
bottom when i’m hitting that tape so now i can be confident that I’m
locking correctly up into that so now what do we got we blocked here and this is untouched
completely untouched so the reverse of that guy of that
technique I can find my tape edge is to now tape
through low side if you haven’t learned how to stretch masking tape I’m going to
teach you right now let’s see here we are ok watch this get a little bit of distance on this can
I’ve got a big stretch of tape out here and I’m holding it here basically what I’m doing is stretching
it because the tape will stretch it wants to stretch and I’m guiding it
across that inside edge this is something that’s kind of masking
one of one but it’s it’s a nice technique well and danger that a
position but it’s a nice technique and and it will allow you to do things like
this quickly and relatively easily alright so now again here we are I’m protected I’m not digging the edge
of this rather aggressive block into my already blocked panel ok I’ve hit metal I’ve still got a low spot
there that tells me it’s time to it’s time to reprime I don’t want to want to
dig holes in it because if you keep going here your block just like a wave on the ocean
will contour into that stuff i’m going to show you another way to
utilize the tape technique to create my roll of tape roll areas to create a peak
tej are your f-body Camaros that style line that goes down the middle of the
panel it’s it’s really distinct and its really
nice to be able to crisp those things up so you can do something like this if you have to help build back and this
goes for filler as well guys you can do this with your poly filters as well as
your primer surfacer is because essentially it’s the same thing so what have I done they’re created a
hard edge now i’m covering up what I’ve already
covered and I’m blocking into that guy again and this is just the sort of an oh by
the way thing I’m not having to be too careful around my tape line really quick
you see what I’ve done I’ve created a faux hawk right in the middle and you
can I could feel it I can feel it’s a hard line that I’m creating here so you
can really accentuate peaks curves and valleys by utilizing a simple thing such
as tape now here’s something that I use all the
time I like to dry block i like to dry sand it’s just something that I’ve gotten
used to this is a powdered guide code I really like it because in the first
place I’m not adding any kind of a paint layer to the panel which you know the
guy code is formulated to be dry and to be blocked off so you’re not trapping
anything anyways but this makes me feel good it’s a carbon-based guide code you can
block wet with this stuff so we’re going to go back this is a
technique for blocking a complex shape a multiple curved shape with a big flat
block and essentially it’s the same thing you’re traveling with it but it’s
really important that you travel the right way if I compress my block down
there what am i doing I’m putting a lot of pressure right here I don’t want to do that so what I want
to do is travel with that curve yeah ok yeah yeah yeah ok and as long as i’m using the right
pressure in the right technique and guide coats and visual aids I can take a straight rigid block and I
can work contours and complex shapes with it and you guys can too and that’s
kind of standard is kind of industry standard but in my opinion there’s a different
way to do it that can get you there a little bit
faster so we’re going to switch panels right now i’m going to get my super
stand out of the way from either packard fender over and here’s something fun it’s rethinking things just a little bit where’s my scissors hang on campus rather than force my sanding block as
you can with these guys force my sanding block with the paper on
it to the contour what I’m going to do here is let’s see we’re about there question is what am I trying to do
trying to recreate this surface I’m trying to accentuate the surface and
make it as flat as possible and as beautiful as possible so i get the best
paint reflection I can possibly get right so let’s take the whole arc of
that fender since the whole things like an egg anyways it’s all around now what I’m doing is putting my
sandpaper on the panel I’m holding my block to the paper guess what I got now I got a curve
sanding block so if I really want some strength on
this guy I do it again on the top side touch it
in the middle forcing the block down of course the
block down there so now it’s not going to flex its not
going to move and now I’ve got something that I can block and grab onto so my traveling with a hard rigid block
over this corner just got a whole lot easier folks the other blocks that i showed you
you can do this technique as well with the Roger can take the rods out but
these soft Sanders in my mind are easier to do because the shapes already there i
don’t have to put pressure on the ends to get the shape in there and you can
see what’s happening yeah yeah yeah yeah I’m getting home a whole lot quicker I’m lo there I’ve
almost hit metal there and I’ve still got tons of meat left on this paper here’s the good thing about it too if I
have to change shapes the adhesive it stays stays good on this clock back
paper and you can take the block since they don’t deteriorate now i can have a straight block if I
want one and still got the rigidity they want little twist twist and blacks so you see where I’m going with this if
you utilize the shape of the panel to help recreate the shape of the panel
your kind of miles ahead and it’s just a nice technique to be able to pass on so we’ve talked about rigid blogs we’ve talked about flexible blocks let’s
talk about this tie line again hang on just a moment with this off
sanders there are there’s multiple shapes and there’s all kinds of of ways
to get in and and utilize what’s neat about these Sanders is that you’ve got
multiple work surfaces so I’m going to utilize take it back i’m going to
utilize this right here that edge now what I can do I can run this block
along that style line yeah yeah yeah and what it’s done is make a really nice
surface right down here where normally I would be blocking up against that and
potentially gouging that now you can always go back and do it again but this
allows you to create different zones within the panel and correct that
surface utilizing the different shapes of these different Sanders so that’s something as well that I want
to talk about I’ve got some buddies that are beautiful custom car builders in the
industry they make their own sanding blocks and
they use the shape of the panel which is kind of the soft Sanders came about in
the first place but they use the shape of the panel they literally mill
something out of wood or balsa wood or even plexiglass Tim strange blocks all
of these vehicles all the clear coat down with sheet of Plexiglas that are
very very hard very very rigid if you’ve ever seen one of tim’s paint jobs up
close outstanding my friends outstanding so he
knows what he’s doing he makes his own blocks it’s pretty cool so on that note I would like to open it
up to questions I’m sure there’s some questions in queue but one of the
questions that that I get coming up is why don’t you block wet well if you look at my shoes they’re dry it’s as simple as that I like dry shoes sorry I just and the truth of the answer
is that in the collision repair industry speed really matters is getting it done
you get one shot to make that that flat rate and I learned over the years that
working dry allows me to not only get the the job ahead of me done but also to
move on to the next step without having a wait time I’m not saying I never wet sand because
i do wet sanding and buffing and there’s there’s times where always had one and
and and take advantage of that technology but it’s it’s something that
I’ve just come to appreciate it that have that I’ve gotten used to over the
years so we’ve got a question coming through go ahead of that question okay all right the question is what happens if you know
your shape is incorrect and you’ve got both both surfaces sanded smooth and
there’s no guide coat well the obvious answer is you reapply
the guide coat and if you’ve got enough meat left in your primer surfacer and
you can keep on blocking you can block all day long if you’ve got enough enough
enough material on there we don’t own these panels like I said
his first prime so I’m going to block this once until I hit metal too late
filler and go back with another bath of the high bill contour polyester surfacer
so that’s a good question and ok so we’ve got another one cute out thank you
for these questions guys this is awesome and and this is a neat way to share this
technology Eastwood company and i are going to be bringing you a bunch of
these live streams in 2014 so buckle up it’s going to be a cool year so i’ll go
ahead with a question should i use guide coat for I’m sorry
repeated again I had a little trouble hearing excellent question the question is
should i use that guide coat for my fillers and for my my poli fillers and
and fine finishing fillers before i get to the stage of a high bill primer
surfacer like I said especially when you’re using the contour the poly fill
er your polyester wipe on fillers at the same composition as the spray on filters
here so it’s essentially the same thing so of course you can use a guide code
that’s where I really favored the powdered guide coat and by all means
when i’m in the film stage if I’ve got a whole entire quarter panel wiped and a
skim coat on that our guide coat that sucker because i want to see I want wet
check because of course filters and bondo xin do whatever you want to call
it your your poly fillers your wife on fillers are porous you’ll lick that
solve it down in there and it takes a long time for it to dry out sometimes
you trap salt the solvents inside your fillers but the the guide coat on
fillers is a great idea it just it’s another visual aid to get you close to
home faster get your panel in shape faster and straighter your fillers are
the less primer surfacer that you’re going to need and the less blocking time
that you’re going to have into it so great question yes absolutely user guide coat on
fillers absolutely the question is what grit do i suggest
to block down to four final paint application that question has a couple
of different answers if I’m painting a solid color is a very
different story than if I’m painting a metallic color especially a light silver the reason is that if I’m blocking with
180 chances are if I’m shooting at black even if i do have sanding scratches come
through that pain I’m not going to see him you might see
them goes through into the clear but if again course this is horribly wrong to
paint over top of 180 scratches but if I’m on 180 scratches with the silver
metallic particles are going to stand up they’re going to orient within those
scratches because they’re microscopic its microscopic Micah’s and and and flakes and things like that they
will find a nice comfortable position inside those grooves and it will look
horrible through your paint job so for a solid
color i recommend 400 grit that’s fine if you want to go finer you
can go 600 grit anything higher than that on a solid color i would recommend
that you’re not going to have enough mechanical adhesion for metallics I stay around 600 grit and I make sure
that I guide coat and I make sure that I’ve got all of the guide coat out of
the car at the scratches because that that fine sandpaper can actually bridge
that that super fine dust into scratches and lie to you so if I’m setting a
metallic about sanding 600 and blocking i will go 600 i will guide coat and then
i’ll knock over with 600 again to see if any scratches come up through so great question solid colors 400
metallic color 600 maybe 800 but you probably won’t need him but the six to eight hundred six hundred
is what i recommend a great question ok how many times do you prime and block
and sand and prime and block and sand to to get your surface straight before you
move on while the question was before you move on to high build primer but to
me it’s before you move on to the the painting it’s the the smartass answer is however many it takes with your guide
coats with your wet checking you’ll know when your panels are straight and you
develop an eye for it very quickly and and honestly it’sit’s however many it
takes the straighter you can get your panels through metal work through your
polyester fillers and then finally through your your high build primer
surfaces you know there’s no real number your your your project will dictate to
you when it straight it will let you know and when you’re
saying guide coat off and you don’t see any more low spots you’re straight so on jaded over here the door to fender gap
that the car was assembled it was blocked it was primed it was blocking
his prime so everything’s flat there’s probably
four sessions of the high build Polly on that as well as one session of the 2k
great urethane and then when I got to clear coat I blocked my clear with 603 cleared
again to give it that flowcode look to give it that dip look and this is what
it took that’s then I was satisfied with how
straight the car is so the short answer is your panels will tell you i would
count on at least two primes and blocks before you go to your final primer for
paint so I hope that answers your question but
keep working to develop the muscles that’s what it’s going to take okay well guys I want to thank you very
much for watching this live broadcast and hopefully we’ve shared some
information with you that’s going to help you out this stuff helps me I remind myself of
these techniques with every single project that i do and and we love to
learn the eastwood company is all about being proactive and an empowering people
so i send in your suggestion send in your questions are we wanted to create
these broadcasts for you guys so that they benefit you it’s a nice reminder for me to to brush
up on my fundamental technique but how our hope in our mission
statement with the the cooperative venture with education in the eastwood
company is to to help you guys have a better results which is going to make
make you your project that much more successful and that much more enjoyable
so you can take the pride in saying hey I did it myself and we hope we’ve shared some techniques
for you with you this time that will help you do this and we look forward to
many more broadcast i want to say merry christmas and happy new year we’re at
the end of the season so thanks for watching Thank You
Eastwood thank you to all the guys over there that are wonderful people my family and I extend to you the best
wishes so thanks for watching and we’ll see you next year ok

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